Uniting Technology, Folk Traditions and Nature
Interview with Barbara Rakovská
Barbara Rakovská is a designer from Prague. She is a free art enthusiast who combines art and experiments with functional objects.
Can you tell us about some of the core themes of your work?
New materials are a fundamental theme for me. I am interested in an overlap of design into fashion, objects in relation to the body, and jewellery. I am currently researching biomaterials focusing on self-growing materials.
During my postgraduate programme at Fabricademy in Barcelona, I was exploring the potential of using root-based materials in the fashion industry. I intend to communicate the message of using different approaches for fabricating textiles. The roots of plants weave themselves while looking for nutrition and water, but this process occurs through human cooperation, with us providing the plant with suitable conditions and respond to its needs.
My project “Amber Grain Embroidery - Growing Folklore Elements” was the culmination of my research at Fabricademy. It is a speculative piece that considers the use of materials in traditional techniques, digital fabrication, and collaboration with nature. It also demonstrates the potential applications in clothing.
What importance do you see biomaterials having in the present and future?
Integrating biomaterials into the fashion industry aligns with the global movement towards sustainability and can lead to a more environmentally friendly and socially responsible fashion sector.
It offers numerous benefits. For instance, materials that grow naturally without the need for artificial energy can be more sustainable throughout their entire lifecycle. Bio-based materials originate from renewable resources and can enable resource-efficient components. This, in turn, can reduce our environmental impact and help mitigate the effects of climate change.
What is something that you wish others would see when they see your grain designs?
I aspire to inspire other designers who are interested in exploring new and experimental materials in their work. My project Amber Grain Embroidery aims to showcase the connection between folk traditions, root-based materials, wool waste fibers, natural colours and advanced technologies.
I also utilise wool in combination with roots. Wool as a material has been neglected since the rise of synthetic fibers. Unfortunately, wool has become marginal in the textiles market, leading to unused raw wool being wasted instead of becoming a source of income for sheep farmers. This waste is usually burned or landfilled.
How did you select wheat and barley as your grains for this project?
I found wheatgrass and barley grains to be ideal for root structures due to their dense fibrous root systems and fine root hairs that create binding friction.
Wheat is known as “amber grain” due to its golden colour. This name is also a metaphor for the plant's richness, which offers a numerous possibilities and materials. Wheat is a grain that is abundant in wealth.
Do you believe the use of different grains could also offer some ecological benefits, with designers turning to grains that are local or ancient for example? What other ecological themes do you see in your work?
I think a benefit could be that you can work with local seeds. For example, even though I was inspired by Slovak folklore, I have seeds from local Spanish sources and my project was developed in Barcelona. In my work, I found that original varieties of whole grain seeds worked best for me, as they were resistant to mould. This could also serve as an example of the importance of valuing original varieties.
Can you tell us more about the lifecycle of your designs?
The folklore costume is made of compostable materials that can decompose back into the soil. The soil can then potentially be used to grow more root-based materials.
While bio-based materials are often considered to be completely sustainable, it is not always the case. Yet, their ecological footprint may often be smaller compared to materials made from polyester, for example. In the process of growing the materials used, water and electricity are still required, but the overall impact is less harmful. For instance, my Bio-folklore costumes are completely biodegradable. I only used natural materials such as roots, wool, beeswax, and grain materials.
Why did you use embroidery / lace-making?
Lace-making and embroidery have a significant place in the traditional folk culture of both countries. My goal is to bring a contemporary and distinctive perspective to these traditional techniques. These techniques require patience, care, and nurturing, similar to root growth. Unfortunately, nowadays, we often lack the patience and care needed to achieve our goals. I returned to my cultural roots and began researching the elements and essence of traditional folklore costumes.
You can follow Barbara’s work through her Linkedin, Instagram and website, and learn more about the Amber Grain Embroidery Project through her Textile Academy Portfolio.